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Botswana 2012 Trip summery

Pied kingfisher, Chobe River.

Please read the earlier post that describes the preparation for the trip and the equipment list.

Equipment

We had five in our group. Three were shooting nikon and two had canons. All cameras worked without problems.

I used 200-400 with a 1.4 TC 80% of the time. D3 and 70-200 was used 15%. 24-70 was used seldom for landscapes. I did not miss my 600VR. I really like the zoom feature of the 200-400.

I also enjoyed the nikon v1 with the 10-30 lens as a point and shoot camera. Obviously it was more than PS camera. V1 was attached to my long lens with the adaptor when my lens on the DSLR was not long enough. The quality of the images were quite good. When there was action I gave the V1 to my driver to video tape the scene.

All of the places had vehicles that were not ideal for the use of bean bags. We modified the vehicles by tying two poles to each side of the vehicle so we can place the bean bags over them. This worked great. The molar bags fitted the poles better than the kinesis bags. Julie used her puffin pad from the vehicle and she liked it. She never used her super clamps that she brought. I would recommend carrying bungee cords to secure the bean bags and the camera bags to prevent them from flying off the vehicles. Tripod was used few times for the sunset pictures.

Gura gear kibuku bag worked well. It carried all my gear both in the plane and the safari vehicle. In the safari vehicle I looped a bungee cord around the side handle and secured it to the seat. I wished it had a laptop compartment so I didn’t have to bring a separate laptop bag.

My fear about carrying heavy hand luggage in Air Botswana flight was unfounded. They never checked the weight of the hand luggage. It weighed twice the allowed weight.

iPad used for reading and I wrote this blog post using WordPress app. All the camera manuals were stored in the iPad for easy reference.

My hyperdrive storage device malfunctioned. It would only download part of the images from the Lexa 1000x card. I should have tested the combo before bringing on the trip. Also check your card reader to make sure it works with your cards. Bringing two card readers in case of failure. I used my laptop to make two copies of the images to the laptop hard drive and external passport drive. I shot nearly 250GB of images. This was partly due to large file sizes of D 800. I also brought enough CF cards in case my hard drive failed.

Wonpro Universal 5-Outlet Power Strip with Surge Protector that I brought was very helpful. Many of the places we stayed had only few outlets and finding outlets to charge all the gear was a challenge. I also used Botswana to USA converter to plug in my power cord to theirs.

Weather was very pleasant and the cloud formations were gorgeous. We had few rain showers but not enough to interfere with the game drives. The prices were 40% cheaper compared to peak season in July-September. The game viewing was excellent but we had to work hard to find the animals due to availability of the water.

I did not use my rain coat at all. All the vehicles had garbage bags to protect the gear and good quality parkas for the guests. Mosquito repellent was never used.

It is not a bad idea to take some rehydration electrolytes in case you develop diarrhea.

One of the other members of the trip Rich had this to say.

· Point and shoot camera is helpful, especially for grab shoots around camp

· Took more pictures than I thought I would – especially with the camera set on high-speed in case action happened. Important to be ready for action, so keep set on high-speed.

· Feet for big lens is helpful on bean bags (see Wimberley Module 1 – M-1 / pair of these mounted on each end of QR plate will help the lens be more stable)

· Small paper notebook or small recorder to get names correct. ( I used the voice recording function of D3 instead of a tape recorder.)

· Did not use 16-35 but 24-105 was very handy. Lens were 24-105, 70-300 and 500 with TCs.

· Wimberley head was overkill – did not use it enough to justify weight. Full sized ball head would have sufficed.

· Limit clothing. 5 changes of tee shirts, socks, underwear is sufficient with 3 changes of pants and long sleeve shirts (2 might work but extra just in case)

· Cap clip – hats are easily blown off in windy vehicles

January 5, 2013 | Categories: Botswana, Locations, Technique | Tags: africa, Botswana, equipment, photography, safari | Leave a comment

Botswana 2012 Trip report Part II

Day 9

After a 20 minute bush plane ride we arrived at Kwara camp. The pilot was nice enough to fly low( 3000 feet) so we could see the wildlife below. In this picture you could see a herd of elephants near a water hole..

Kwara camp is located within one of the largest( Half a million acres) private concession areas in Botswana. Kwara is part of the legendary Kwando camps, known for their hard-core dedication for game viewing.

On our way from the airstrip to the camp ( 10 minutes) we saw several elephants, giraffes, one sidestriped jackal and a herd of zebras.

The camp over looks a beautiful lagoon. At any give time I could count at least two dozen hippos very close to the shore. Giraffes and Zebras were often seen on the other side of the lagoon. A platoon of Olive Baboons would patrol the camp on a regular basis. We were warned to lock up everything to prevent them from stealing.

In the afternoon we decided to take the boat to see the rookeries.

As you can see from the picture below the boat had plenty of room for tripods and our gear. The upper deck could hold at least 5 people with tripods.

We navigated many channels of the Okavango Delta to get to the rookery which was a good hour ride from our camp.

There were many hippos inhabiting these narrow channels and some in large open waters.

Rockery was not at the peak activity but we still saw many birds coming to roost. Tripod set up at the upper deck gave eye level shots of the nesting birds. This particular day was very windy and the upper deck of the boat was rocking from the choppy waters making the conditions not ideal for good photography.

Cattle Egret

Marabou Stork

Day 10

The vehicles here are open top and different from other camps. The staff was kind enough to modify the vehicles so we can place our bean bags over the poles.

There is a small seat secured to the front of the vehicle where the tracker sits. When a predator is spotted he moves inside the vehicle.

At dawn I could hear the distant roaring lions.

The morning cereal and coffee was offered around a wooden fire. Within minutes of leaving the camp, we saw a lioness and her cub resting. Due to thick growth of tall grass we could barely see them. The other highlights were the hyena den we visited and a ground hornbill nest.

At one point we saw a dozen giraffes grazing.

In the afternoon we decided to go to the rookery. It was a perfectly calm day but the roosting birds came rather late. The light was vanishing fast. We had a better session yesterday in spite of bad weather. Birds are calmer with much less territorial fights between them.

Sunset over the delta

Day 11

This morning our guide suggested we go north looking for three cheetahs sometimes found in that area. The sunrise was beautiful with a thin vail of fog covering the tall grass.

Around 6.30AM one of the other guides radioed in the sighting of three wild dogs. Since they were moving fast we rushed to the area. We had about 2-3 minutes with the small pack before they disappeared in to the bush. These hunters were magnificent specimens and I was not disappointed even though I only managed to get few shots. The 200-400 zoom lens proved its versatility . I was able to take a head shot as well as group shots without changing the lens.

Elusive Wild Dog

After the encounter with the wild dogs we continued north looking for cheetahs. One of the other guides spotted the cheetahs and we started speeding towards the area. In the rush I lost my unsecured bean bag. It flew off the vehicle and fell into a muddy pool of water. The vehicle behind recovered the bag from the water . Mean time the cheetahs were pursuing a reed buck. The other group witnessed the kill. By the time we got there, the kill was completed. We watched them dinning on the reed buck . Within 45 minutes vultures started arriving by the dozen. We left after spending about an hour with the cheetahs.

On our way to the camp we saw a hippo laying in a small pool of water. It appeared very lethargic and sick. We got very close to see if it was still breathing and it was. I hope the poor creature survives.

During the afternoon drive we discovered fresh lion tracks. We followed them for a while and found three handsome lions and a lioness. They were intruders from an adjacent concessions and were trying to establish a new territory here.

The other highlight of the evening drive was a group of ground horn bills hunting for insects and frogs.

The sundowner was always fun.

We did a toast to a fantastic day and great guiding. I managed to get a few shots of the evening sky while enjoying a glass of red wine. On the way to the camp we did a night drive using a powerful spot light. Few hippos going out to grace, black backed jackal, many impalas and topis were seen.

I had too much fun today and feeling little dizzy after drinking 4 glasses of wine.

Day 12

This morning the plan was to look for lion pride we found yesterday. With less than 45 minutes into the game drive we found them. It was fantastic. When I saw one lion laying down but looking towards us I asked the driver to position our vehicle so his mane was back lit. Then the unthinkable happened. The pride started roaring.

I could see the breath coming out of his mouth every time he roared . I was pressing my shutter like crazy. Then my camera slowed down at the worst time. My fast cf card was full and the camera is writing to the slower sd card. I still managed few good shots. The other honeymooning couple was resting on a termite mound. The morning soft golden light was hitting them just right.

We photographed them for almost 40 minutes before they decided to leave.

It was time to say good-by to Kuvara camp staff. Tom, KG, Bate and the other guides did a wonderful job. We couldn’t have ask for better.

Our baggage and bean bags at the Guest lounge, Kwara airstrip

The flight to Kwando Lagoon camp was bumpy. Five of us flew in a 8 seater and our luggage came in a smaller plane. The camp has 8 spacious tents each facing the Kwado river. The other side of the river is Namibia.

Living area

Bed room

The vehicles in this camp had roofs but otherwise very similar to Kwara camp.

This camp is well-known for its pack of wild dogs.

Just outside the pool area we found a pair of little bee eaters that posed nicely for us. I used 200-400 with 1.4tc and 1.5 crop on d800 to get nearly full frame shots.

The afternoon drive was unremarkable. We concentrated on finding wild dogs. The trackers found the tracks towards the end of the day but we never found the pack. On our way to the camp we saw a barn owl and a bush baby under a spot light. The camp was full, with people from USA, Germany, England and South Africa . Our guides suggested that we start morning game drive earlier than usual in the pursuit of wild dogs.

Day 13

Search for the elusive wild dogs started around 6am and lasted several hours. No tracks were found. Apart from few landscape shots and other game we found, it was a slow morning.

Afternoon was spent exploring the eastern side of the concession. The habitat was sage with low grass and river running through it. The area was supposed to be very good for leopards. None were found. We saw a herd of elephants gracing, many antelopes and a group of male kudus. The highlight of the evening was the night game drive. We saw two wild cats ( one with a kitten), crocodile , porcupine, hippo with two babies, impalas, python and other antelopes .

Wild Cat

Day 14

Today is the last chance to see wild dogs. The guide decided to go to the adjoining concession ( Labella) that is also operated by the same company. As soon as we left the camp we spotted a pair of hyenas scavenging on an impala carcass. The lighting was gorgeous. The we heard that one of the other vehicle has spotted a pack of wild dogs. After nearly one and a half hour drive we came across 16 wild dogs. They were resting near a water hole. We watched the puppies playing and interacting with each other. Some of them got into the water and splashed around. After spending about two hours with them some of us needed a bathroom break. We were only gone for less than twenty minutes. When we came back the dogs were gone. We searched for nearly an hour with no luck.

The wild dog pack

Curious young pup

On our way to the camp I could see brewing thunderstorm in a distance. The guides provided us with good rain gear and a garbage bags to cover the camera gear.

The evening we pent looking for leopards. The trackers found fresh tracks and we followed them all evening with no sighting.

James and Paul carefully studying leopard tracks.

The sky was dramatic with intense colors.

After the sundowner we started our night drive. The other vehicle found a leopard on a termite mound very close to where we had the sundowner. We were able to follow it through the bushes for another half an hour before it disappeared into the darkness.

Day 15

Today is our last day. It brings tears to my eyes to leave this beautiful place and people. Our flight leaves at 11.15am. We decided to spent our last game drive looking for the leopard we found yesterday. He was nowhere to be found. I guess I have to come again.

December 23, 2012 | Categories: Botswana, Locations | Tags: africa, Botswana, photography, safari | 3 Comments

Botswana Trip Report 2012 – part I

Day 1
This is the beginning of the rainy season in Botswana .( Nov 27th). The prices were half of the peak time rates. Our tour leader is Ty Smedes, a well known Des Moines, IA area nature photographer and author. It was organized by wild sources based in Colorado.

The 14 hr flight on Delta from Atlanta to Johannesburg was bumpy but uneventful. . The whole group ( Ty, Rich, Donna, Julie and myself) stayed the night in the city lodge at the airport which is very conveniently located.

My room, City lodge at OR Tambo airport, South Africa.

Day 2
My finalized checked luggage weighed 47lbs which is just over 44 Ibs allowed by Botswana air. The backpack weighed 33 lbs. The other carry on had my laptop and the iPad. They were both way over 7kgs allowed. In fact, all 5 of us were over weight and had two carry on items instead of one allowed by Botswana air.
The nice lady at the counter never weighed our carry on. My kiboko bag barely fit into the overhead compartment.

Air Botswana plane we flew

We arrived in Kasane , Botswana after an hour and a half flight. Our first two nights will be at Chobe game lodge at Chobe National Park. The lodge is old and rustic. It overlooks the Chobe River. I could tell that the rainy season had already started. The trees were budding with new leaves. The water puddles were everywhere. Newborn impalas were a common site.
In the afternoon we decided to take the boat ride along the Chobe river. Teekee, our guide was excellent in maneuvering the boat so we could get close to the shore line without spooking the birds. There were many kingfishers, cormorants, open bills, crocodiles and other animals.We were able to use tripods on this flat bottom boat without difficulty.

Day 3.

We have asked our guide at Chobe Lodge to purchase 50Kg of beans to fill our bean bags. What we didn’t realize was that beans were very expensive and it would have been much cheaper to purchase rice instead. The open top vehicles in Botswana are not well suited to use bean bags. Ty, the group leader got the guides to modify the vehicles by tying two poles to each side of the vehicle at shoulder height. The bean bags were place over the poles and then secured with bungee cords. This worked extremely well.

Modified safari vehicle.

The morning drive started just before sunset soon after we had coffee and cookies. This particular morning the sunrise was gorgeous. We saw impalas, elephants, jackals and many birds. The african sea eagles were everywhere. For the first time I was able to try my Nikon V1 camera attached to 200-400VR lens using FT-1 adaptor. With the V1 sensor’s 2.7Crop factor 200-400 became 540-1080 lens while maintaining a constant aperture of 4.

This picture of the sea eagle was taken with V1 + 200-400+ 1.4TC giving effective focal length of 1512mm. I was pleased with the results. The VR function of the lens come handy at this focal length. The downside is Vr is always on. This can drain the battery. The only way to turn off the VR is to turn off the camera or switching off the VR knob on the lens. Another limitation is that it only allows single Af.

In the afternoon we decided to explore the Chobe river by boat. The highlight was the elephant herd that came to drink water.

Day 4.

I got up early in the morning to get sunrise shots along the Chobe River. Both the Pied and the Giant kingfishers were active but skittish.

Around 10Am we drove to Kasane airstrip to fly to Suvatu area of the Chobe National Park.

Our ride.

Arriving at Savute International Airport

Savuti is a remote part of Chobe NP famous for Lions and Leopards. The movie Eternal Enemies was made in this area. In 2010 after 28yrs, the channel started flowing through Savuti creating a marsh rich in wildlife. The next three nights will be spent at Camp Savuti located on Stolen River.

Welcoming party at camp Savuti

My home for next three nights.

Dinning area in the camp.

The afternoon was spent exploring the park. The water from Savuti channel transform this dry area into a lush marsh full of life. Hundreds of yellow bill storks., egrets, ibis, plovers and many other wading birds were seen.

Savuti Marsh

One thing that struck me was the number of elephant carcases seen in that area. I counted more than twenty. This is a result of over population and lack of food due to drought. One of the guides thought that anthrax may be responsible as well.

Malibu storks feeding on a carcass.

Day 5
It rained all night and into the morning. What appeared to be a gloomy day turned out be one of the best days of the trip. We left the camp around 6am. At 6:07 I saw a Stepp eagle perched very closed to the road. Then we found a lion mating with two lionesses. We spent most of the morning watching the honeymooners. In the afternoon my vehicle spotted a leopard. We had at least 30 minutes with this magnificent animal before it disappeared into the woods.

Towards the sunset, another vehicle spotted a pair of mating leopards. They have seen them mating at least 7 times. When we got there, the light was quickly vanishing. The leopards were resting under a tree but no mating was seen.

Day 6.

We head out to the area where the mating leopards were seen last evening. They were nowhere to be found. Our guide and driver KG found new leopard tracks. We followed them for nearly one kilometer through the shrub into a baobab forest.

Part of the Baobab forest.

Then we caught a glimpse of a leopard coming down a huge Baobab tree. I was little late to react to the situation. In a hurry I just aim at the tree and took this picture. She was gone in a flash. Nest hour so we saw the pair mating and hear the growling male after the each act. However they were behind a heavy overgrowth and we never able to get a clear view of them.

Day 6,7 and 8

We had our sixth leopard sighting. She is known to have two cubs only few months old. The mother was found resting on the ground. The cubs were nowhere to be seen.

It was time to leave Savuti area and head to Okavango Delta. Our next destination is Mapula lodge situated on a private concession of 12 000 hectares in the northwest seasonal floodplains of the Okavango Delta – the concession borders with the world-famous Moremi National Park. The flight from Savuti to mapula took less than 30 minutes.

Areal view of the Delta.The lodge is located overlooking a lagoon. I could see a dozen hippos swimming at any given time. The staff and guides were most accommodating and welcoming.The facilities were outstanding.

My tent and the tub

One thing I found was that the birds and animals tend to be skittish compared to other places we visited. The birds especially take off way before I could get closer to them to get a decent shot. Impalas that are very used to people in other camps disappear at the sound of the vehicle. The camp is bordering a village and there may be some poaching going on. This may explained the behavior of the animals. It is pitty that this is happening as the lodge is located at the most beautiful place and the staff is outstanding.

I woke up to this sunrise the next morning.

Everyday we were at the Mapula lodge, we cross this ancient bridge made out of log. On either side of the bridge was a pond full of life. At any given time there were several piep kingfishers fishing. There were African Jacanas on liily pads, blooming lotus flowers, cormorants, egrets, pigmy teal and many other wildlife. Somedays we spent a fair amount of time watching the life below.

Distant thunderstorm

This area is home to a famous pride of lions. The three lion brothers are known to take down elephants. We came across the brothers on more than one occasion.
The wild dog pack at Mapula was not seen. On our last day we got to see the rare but beautiful Sable antelope.